A Figure 8 descender is an essential tool for climbers, rescue personnel, and canyoning enthusiasts. It provides controlled descent by creating friction between the rope and the device. However, in certain situations, stopping mid-descent and securing the rope is necessary. This process, known as tying off a Figure 8 descender, ensures safety while working at height.
This guide will explain the step-by-step method for properly tying off a Figure 8 descender, including hard locks and soft locks, the equipment required, and safety precautions.
Why Tie Off a Figure 8 Descender?
Tying off a Figure 8 descender is crucial in various scenarios, including:
- Resting mid-descent – If you need to take a break or reposition yourself.
- Performing a rescue – Stopping in place to assist another climber.
- Working at height – Staying in a stable position while performing tasks.
- Emergency situations – Preventing accidental slippage if you lose control of the rope.
By mastering this technique, you can ensure a safe and controlled descent under any circumstances.
Equipment Needed
Before attempting to tie off a Figure 8 descender, ensure you have the following gear:
- Figure 8 descender – A durable metal device designed for controlled descent.
- Climbing rope – A dynamic or static rope compatible with your Figure 8 device.
- Locking carabiner – A secure, load-bearing carabiner to attach the Figure 8 to your harness.
- Personal anchor system (PAS) – Optional, but useful for added safety.
Step-by-Step Guide to Tying Off a Figure 8 Descender
There are two main methods for tying off a Figure 8 descender: the soft lock and the hard lock.
1. Soft Lock Method (Quick Stop)
The soft lock is a temporary stop that allows you to hold your position but is not completely hands-free. This method is useful when you need to pause momentarily before continuing your descent.
Steps to Perform a Soft Lock:
- Stop the descent – Hold the brake strand of the rope firmly to halt downward movement.
- Wrap the rope around the Figure 8 – Take the brake strand and wrap it around the large end of the Figure 8 device once.
- Tuck the rope under itself – Pass the brake strand under the wrapped portion to create friction.
- Hold the brake strand – Keep the rope in position by gripping it securely.
This method is effective for quick stops but should not be used for long periods or when hands-free operation is needed.
2. Hard Lock Method (Full Tie-Off for Hands-Free Safety)
The hard lock completely stops movement and allows hands-free operation. It is commonly used in rescue operations or when working at height.
Steps to Perform a Hard Lock:
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Stop descent and wrap the rope
- Hold the brake strand firmly.
- Take the brake strand and wrap it two to three times around the large hole of the Figure 8 descender.
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Create a half hitch knot
- Take the remaining brake strand and form a loop (bight).
- Pass the loop under the wrapped rope and pull it through to create a half hitch.
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Secure with an additional half hitch
- Repeat the process to form a second half hitch for added security.
- Tighten both knots to ensure they hold under load.
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Test the tie-off
- Gently let go of the rope to check if the tie-off holds securely.
- Ensure there is no unintended slippage before proceeding with tasks.
The hard lock is the safest method for securing a Figure 8 descender when stopping for an extended period.
Safety Precautions When Tying Off a Figure 8 Descender
- Always check your knots – Before letting go, ensure that the tie-off is properly secured.
- Use a backup knot – If possible, add an extra stopper knot on the brake strand for redundancy.
- Inspect your equipment – Check the rope, descender, and carabiner for wear or damage before use.
- Practice in a controlled environment – Learn and perfect this technique before using it in real climbing or rescue situations.
- Be aware of rope twist – The Figure 8 descender can cause rope twisting; managing your rope properly can prevent tangles.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Not wrapping the rope enough times – Fewer wraps result in reduced friction, increasing the risk of slippage.
- Incorrect half hitch knots – Ensure the loops are properly secured to prevent unintentional loosening.
- Letting go too soon – Always test the lock before releasing the brake strand.
- Using a damaged rope or descender – Inspect your gear before every use to prevent failure.
- Overlooking carabiner locking – Ensure your carabiner is properly locked to avoid accidental disconnection.
When to Use a Figure 8 Descender vs. Other Devices
While the Figure 8 descender is a versatile tool, there are alternatives depending on the situation:
- Figure 8 vs. ATC (Air Traffic Controller) – ATCs are lighter and provide more control for belaying but may not be ideal for heavy loads or rescue operations.
- Figure 8 vs. Grigri – A Grigri is an assisted braking device, making it safer for beginners or sport climbing but less effective for long rappels.
- Figure 8 vs. Rack Descender – Rack descenders provide adjustable friction for heavier loads but are bulkier than a Figure 8.
Tying off a Figure 8 descender is an essential skill for climbers, rescue professionals, and canyoning enthusiasts. Whether you need a soft lock for a temporary stop or a hard lock for hands-free security, mastering this technique ensures safety and control while working at height.
By practicing these methods, following safety precautions, and using the right equipment, you can confidently use a Figure 8 descender in any situation.