The Figure 8 descender with ears is a vital tool in rock climbing, rappelling, and rescue operations. It provides excellent control over descent speed and reduces rope twists. The “ears” on the device add extra security by preventing accidental locking and improving braking power.
In this guide, you’ll learn how to use a Figure 8 descender with ears properly, along with essential safety tips and best practices.
What Is a Figure 8 Descender with Ears?
A Figure 8 descender with ears is a metal device shaped like the number 8, with two small extensions (ears) on the larger loop. It is primarily used in:
- Climbing and rappelling – for controlled descent
- Rescue operations – for safe and stable lowering
- Canyoning and caving – for descending steep or vertical terrain
The ears serve as additional friction points, giving more control and preventing the rope from slipping into a dangerous locked position.
Benefits of Using a Figure 8 Descender with Ears
1. Better Control Over Descent
The large lower loop allows the rope to slide smoothly, while the ears offer extra braking options.
2. Prevents Rope Locking
Without ears, the rope may accidentally loop around the device, making it difficult to continue descending.
3. Reduces Rope Wear
By distributing friction over a larger area, the device helps extend the life of the rope.
4. Easy to Use
It is simple to set up and operate, even for beginners, making it a favorite among climbers and rescue professionals.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Use a Figure 8 Descender with Ears
Step 1: Prepare Your Gear
Before using a Figure 8 descender, make sure you have:
- A climbing harness
- A carabiner (locking type recommended)
- A rope suitable for rappelling or climbing
- Gloves for better grip and rope protection
Step 2: Attach the Rope to the Descender
- Hold the Figure 8 descender with the large loop facing down.
- Thread the rope through the large loop, forming a bight (a loop in the rope).
- Pass the bight over the small loop (ears) and let it rest on the larger loop.
Step 3: Connect the Descender to Your Harness
- Attach a locking carabiner to the belay loop of your harness.
- Clip the small loop of the Figure 8 descender into the carabiner.
- Lock the carabiner securely before proceeding.
Step 4: Check for Proper Setup
- Ensure the rope is threaded correctly and isn’t twisted.
- The rope should move freely through the descender.
- Check that the carabiner is locked and secure.
Step 5: Start Descending
- Hold the brake hand firmly on the rope below the descender.
- Use the guide hand to control the rope above the descender.
- Slowly feed the rope through the descender while keeping a firm grip.
- Adjust speed by changing the angle of the rope—pulling it down increases friction and slows descent.
Step 6: Use the Ears for Extra Control
- If you need more braking power, wrap the rope around one of the ears before continuing descent.
- For stopping completely, wrap the rope around both ears. This helps secure the device and prevents slipping.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
1. Not Locking the Carabiner
Always double-check that the carabiner is locked before starting the descent to prevent accidents.
2. Incorrect Rope Placement
Threading the rope improperly can reduce friction and make descent too fast. Always confirm the rope is correctly positioned.
3. Letting Go of the Brake Hand
Your brake hand must never leave the rope. If you lose control, you may descend too quickly, leading to injuries.
4. Rappelling Too Fast
Descending too quickly can overheat the metal device, burning your rope or gloves. Maintain a slow, controlled pace.
5. Using the Wrong Rope Diameter
Most Figure 8 descenders are designed for 9mm-13mm ropes. Using a rope that’s too thin or too thick can affect performance.
Safety Tips for Using a Figure 8 Descender with Ears
- Always wear gloves to protect your hands from rope burns.
- Use a backup system, such as a prusik knot, for extra safety.
- Practice in a controlled environment before using it in extreme conditions.
- Inspect your equipment regularly for wear and damage.
The Figure 8 descender with ears is an essential tool for climbers, rescuers, and outdoor adventurers. It provides better control, reduces rope wear, and improves safety during descent.
By following the correct setup and techniques, you can ensure a smooth and secure rappelling experience. Always prioritize safety, proper training, and equipment checks before every descent. Happy climbing!